Rolex Submariner

Overview

The Rolex Submariner 124060 is a modern expression of one of horology’s most recognisable designs. It combines the unmistakable black-dial, black-bezel configuration associated with the Submariner with Rolex’s latest-generation 41mm Oystersteel case and Calibre 3230 movement. The result is a purpose-built diver that remains equally convincing as an everyday luxury watch.

Priced at £10,490, this no-date Submariner offers the cleanest interpretation of the model’s core formula. Its unidirectional Cerachrom bezel supports accurate dive-time measurement, luminous Chromalight display elements assist legibility in darkness, and the Oyster bracelet provides secure, adaptable wear. For buyers seeking a definitive Rolex sports watch, this reference is a compelling choice within our selection of Rolex watches.

The 124060 is not designed merely to suggest adventure. It is engineered around the demands of underwater use, with 300-metre water resistance, a robust screw-down crown and Rolex’s Oyster case architecture. At the same time, its restrained proportions, monochrome palette and polished-and-brushed finishing allow it to move naturally from a wetsuit to business or evening wear.

Brand and reference history

Rolex introduced the original Submariner in the 1950s, establishing a template that would influence almost every subsequent mechanical dive watch. Its defining characteristics were clear from the beginning: a highly legible dial, a rotating bezel for elapsed-time readings, substantial water resistance and a bracelet suited to demanding conditions. Over the decades, Rolex refined those fundamentals without losing the model’s visual identity.

The Submariner 124060 belongs to the contemporary generation introduced with the 41mm case format. It succeeded the 40mm no-date reference 114060, bringing updated proportions and the Calibre 3230 while retaining the classic black-on-black configuration. The reference is significant because it demonstrates how carefully Rolex evolves a flagship design: the changes are meaningful in construction and performance, yet the watch remains immediately recognisable as a Submariner.

The absence of a date display is central to this reference’s appeal. It leaves the dial symmetrical, removes the need for a Cyclops lens and preserves the uncluttered, tool-watch character that many collectors associate with the earliest Submariner designs. In contrast, the date-equipped model offers a different balance of utility and visual detail; the Rolex Submariner Date is therefore an alternative for buyers who specifically require calendar functionality.

Dial, hands and design detail

The black dial is designed for immediate reading rather than decoration. Large applied hour markers create a clear visual rhythm, while the familiar round, baton and triangle forms help the eye identify the time quickly. The hands are strongly differentiated, including the Submariner’s distinctive Mercedes-style hour hand, allowing the wearer to distinguish the display at a glance in changing conditions.

Rolex Chromalight luminescence emits a long-lasting blue glow in low-light environments. This is particularly useful underwater, where natural light diminishes rapidly, but it also benefits everyday use in dim restaurants, theatres and travel settings. The white text and polished surrounds add definition without compromising the dial’s disciplined appearance.

At six o’clock, the applied Rolex crown reinforces the dial’s identity, while the minute track remains crisp and functional around the perimeter. There is no unnecessary text beyond the information expected of a professional dive watch. That visual restraint is one of the reasons the Submariner works so effectively across different settings: it looks technical without appearing overcomplicated.

The black Cerachrom bezel insert complements the dial while introducing a highly durable ceramic component to the external design. Its graduated 60-minute scale is essential for timing a dive, decompression stop or any other elapsed period. The contrast between the deep black insert, bright markers and Oystersteel case gives the watch its enduringly recognisable silhouette.

Case, bracelet and wearability

The 41mm Oystersteel case is manufactured from Rolex’s corrosion-resistant steel alloy, selected for its strength, stability and ability to retain a high-quality finish. Its form incorporates carefully shaped lugs and a combination of polished and satin-brushed surfaces, producing the visual balance expected of a Rolex professional model. The case is substantial enough to communicate capability while remaining refined on the wrist.

Water resistance is rated to 300 metres, or 1,000 feet, making the Submariner a genuine tool watch rather than a watch that merely borrows diving aesthetics. The screw-down crown and caseback help create a secure sealed system, while the Triplock-style crown arrangement provides an additional layer of protection against water ingress. Water resistance is dependent on condition and correct maintenance, so regular testing remains important for owners who use the watch in water.

The unidirectional bezel is a key safety feature. It is designed to rotate in one direction, meaning an accidental movement can only indicate less remaining time rather than extending it. Its precise action and clear markings make it simple to set against a minute hand, whether timing a dive or using the watch in daily life.

The Oyster bracelet is secured by a folding Oysterlock clasp, with the Glidelock extension system allowing fine adjustment without tools. This is particularly practical when wearing the watch over a wetsuit, but it is equally useful for adapting to normal changes in wrist size throughout the day. The bracelet’s solid construction and integrated relationship with the case contribute to the Submariner’s reassuring presence.

Movement and technical specification

Powering the Submariner 124060 is Rolex Calibre 3230, a self-winding mechanical movement developed for contemporary no-date models. It delivers a stated power reserve of approximately 70 hours, allowing the watch to continue running through a weekend when fully wound. The movement is built around reliability, resistance to everyday shocks and consistent performance rather than visual extravagance.

Calibre 3230 incorporates Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, designed to improve efficiency while maintaining strong resistance to magnetic fields. Its blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers support stability in demanding conditions. As with all mechanical watches, accuracy can be influenced by position, temperature, use and service history, but the movement is engineered to meet Rolex’s stringent performance expectations.

The movement specification complements the Submariner’s external engineering. Automatic winding reduces the need for manual intervention during regular wear, while the screw-down crown helps protect the case against moisture. The absence of a date mechanism also gives Calibre 3230 a focused role within the watch, supporting the symmetrical dial and straightforward operation.

• Reference: Rolex Submariner 124060
• Case diameter: 41mm
• Case material: Oystersteel
• Dial: Black with Chromalight luminescence
• Bezel: Unidirectional rotatable bezel with black Cerachrom insert
• Movement: Rolex Calibre 3230, self-winding mechanical
• Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
• Water resistance: Up to 300 metres, or 1,000 feet
• Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock extension

Sizing and how it wears

At 41mm, the Submariner 124060 occupies a versatile position. It has the visual authority expected from a professional sports watch, but its case design prevents it from feeling unnecessarily oversized. The lugs curve naturally around the wrist, helping the watch sit securely rather than appearing to perch above it. Its moderate case thickness is consistent with the demands of water resistance and a robust automatic movement.

The watch has a confident wrist presence, particularly when viewed from above, yet the black dial and bezel create a visually cohesive profile that does not appear excessive. On a smaller wrist, careful bracelet adjustment is important, and the Glidelock system makes this straightforward. On a larger wrist, the 41mm case and solid Oyster bracelet provide enough substance to feel proportionate.

Its versatility is enhanced by the restrained colour scheme. Black and steel pair easily with casual clothing, tailoring and travel attire, while the brushed surfaces help disguise minor day-to-day marks better than a fully polished case might. The Submariner is therefore easy to wear frequently, which is an important consideration for buyers who want a luxury watch that performs beyond occasional use.

Collectability and market value

The Submariner remains one of the strongest names in the luxury sports-watch market, supported by its long history, distinctive design and broad international recognition. The 124060 is particularly attractive to collectors who prefer the pure no-date layout and want the latest movement architecture within the modern 41mm case. It represents a current production interpretation of a design with an exceptionally deep horological footprint.

Market value is influenced by factors including condition, completeness, purchase documentation, service history, age, availability and wider demand. A specific asking price should always be considered alongside the watch’s exact presentation and supporting details. At £10,490, this example is positioned for buyers seeking a modern Submariner with the enduring appeal of a black-dial Rolex professional model.

Collectability does not depend solely on short-term price movements. The Submariner’s lasting appeal comes from its coherent design language and practical engineering. It is a watch that can be collected for historical importance, purchased as a daily companion or selected as a milestone piece, with each use reinforcing the qualities that have made the model so successful.

Within the broader market for dive watches, the Submariner occupies a particularly influential position. Its proportions, bezel arrangement and bracelet design have become reference points for the category, while the 124060 adds contemporary performance without abandoning the visual formula that collectors immediately recognise.

Authenticity, condition and servicing

Authenticity is fundamental when purchasing a Rolex, particularly for a highly sought-after reference such as the Submariner 124060. The watch should be assessed through its reference-specific details, case and bracelet construction, dial execution, bezel action, movement characteristics and available accompanying documentation. A responsible pre-owned dealer should be able to explain what has been inspected and represent the watch accurately.

Condition is best understood as a combination of cosmetic presentation and mechanical performance. Light wear acquired through careful use may be consistent with a pre-owned watch, while deeper marks, polishing, bracelet stretch or replacement components can have a more significant effect on appearance and value. Any description should distinguish clearly between observed condition and information that has not been supplied.

Rolex mechanical watches require periodic servicing to maintain dependable operation. The appropriate interval depends on use, environment and the watch’s performance, while water resistance should be checked before swimming or diving and after any work involving the crown, crystal or case. A service is not simply a cosmetic exercise: lubrication, regulation, sealing and component inspection all contribute to long-term reliability.

For an owner intending to use the Submariner as a working dive watch, regular professional checks are especially important. Water resistance ratings describe the watch when correctly maintained and tested; they do not remove the need for care. Keeping the crown fully secured, avoiding unnecessary impacts and arranging qualified servicing will help preserve both function and value.

Buying this watch from us

This Rolex Submariner 124060 is available from us at £10,490. It offers the modern 41mm Oystersteel case, black Cerachrom bezel, no-date black dial, Calibre 3230 movement and Oyster bracelet with Glidelock adjustment that define this contemporary generation. The specification makes it suitable for both serious collectors and buyers seeking a single, highly capable luxury watch.

We aim to make the buying process clear and considered. Product information is presented around the details available for this particular watch, and our team can help explain the reference, functionality, fit and practical ownership considerations before purchase. If you are comparing models, we can also discuss the differences between the no-date Submariner and other Rolex professional watches.

A Rolex Submariner is a significant acquisition, so the decision should be based on more than recognition alone. Consider how the 41mm case will sit on your wrist, whether the no-date dial suits your routine and how frequently you expect to use the watch in demanding conditions. Its combination of heritage, durability and understated design gives it a strong case as both a personal purchase and a long-term addition to a collection.

For further information about this watch, availability and the buying process, please contact our team. We will be pleased to discuss the Submariner 124060 and help you decide whether this reference matches your requirements.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Rolex Submariner 124060?

The 124060 is the modern no-date Rolex Submariner. It features a 41mm Oystersteel case, black dial, black Cerachrom bezel, Rolex Calibre 3230 movement and Oyster bracelet with Glidelock adjustment.

How water resistant is the Submariner 124060?

The watch is rated to 300 metres, or 1,000 feet, of water resistance. This rating applies when the watch is correctly maintained, the crown is secured and the case has been appropriately tested.

Does this Submariner have a date display?

No. The 124060 is the no-date Submariner, giving it a symmetrical dial and a particularly clean interpretation of the model’s original tool-watch concept.

What movement does the Rolex 124060 use?

It is powered by Rolex Calibre 3230, a self-winding mechanical movement with an approximately 70-hour power reserve and Rolex technologies designed to support accuracy, efficiency and shock resistance.

What size is the Rolex Submariner 124060?

The case measures 41mm in diameter. Its Oyster case profile and adjustable bracelet help it wear securely across a range of wrist sizes, while the Glidelock system allows fine bracelet adjustment without tools.

How much does this Rolex Submariner cost?

This watch is offered at £10,490. Value can also be affected by condition, completeness, service history and documentation, so buyers should consider the full presentation of the individual watch.